Here's some footage of a cold lonely day at eagles.
You can see me talking to someone out of frame in the beginning. It's a man who's name I won't mention but I've seen him there before. He's been body surfing there for awhile. He doesn't like video being shot of him which I fully understand. He told me Greg Noll once said that the waves go flat when the cameras are on. I told him this was for fun and not profit. After awhile he warmed up to me and started talking about the good old days (1970's) of when he lived in Hawaii. Riptides that would drag you out to sea and how they would kill you.
He then proceeded to ask me where else I bodysurfed. I told him that I only really bodysurfed here because you can caveman into waves. He asked me if I had ever body surfed the wedge. I tried to reinforce my status as a kook but he didn't get it.
